Spending in Switzerland: Quality time and lots of Francs

My cousin Donna has lived in Switzerland for over ten years. I've always wanted to visit her and MB and I were finally able to make this dream a reality. Arriving in Zurich last Tuesday night, we felt like absolutely royalty when Donna and her partner Toni were there to greet us at the airport and drive us to their lovely apartment, where they had recently moved. Not only were Donna and Toni gracious enough to host us, but they expedited their move to accommodate our arrival. Over wine and a traditional Swiss meal of Raclette, we discussed European history, geography and current affairs. MB and I and realized how very little we know about these subjects!

Donna and Toni live in the small city of Winterthur, just northeast of Zurich. We had a day to explore this charming swiss community and then headed to Zurich for a day trip. Switzerland is unique among European countries in that its cities' infrastructure have not been destroyed by wars - especially remarkable given proximity to Germany. This is not to say the Swiss were totally removed from war; Zurich's reputation as a financial powerhouse started during the Second World War as many wealthy Germans hid their financial treasures here.

Although we were explicitly warned about Switzerland's high cost of living, still we were not prepared for the inflated prices of literally everything, from groceries to coffee to transportation. For example, a cup of lukewarm tea at McDonald's set us back 3.80 CHF, or 5.12 CAD.  Here in Canada this would cost less than a twoonie. We also happened to see a regular, no frills umbrella with a price tag of 70 CHF, or approx. 95 CAD! With such prices, our travel cheapness kicked into extra high gear.  MB even rooted around in a Starbucks garbage to find the washroom code on a receipt so we wouldn't have to buy a coffee to use the toilet.  I have never been more happy to be married to her than at that moment :)

The Swiss are known for their watches and they love their town clocks too.  There's no excuse to be late in Zurich!  The clock in the distance is the largest clock face in Europe - even bigger than Big Ben.

MB and I couldn't escape the cold on this European trip - my face is the same colour as MB's hat!

Travelling United in the Kingdom

After leaving Ireland last Monday we flew with luxurious Ryanair to Edinburgh. But when you're only paying the equivalent of $15CAN, you can overlook things like printing your own boarding pass, rude hostesses, bumpy landings and (for Scott) not enough room to sit. Anyway, once we arrived in Edinburgh we found it was smooth as Scotch. Navigating the small city was easy; we loved seeing the city by foot and admiring Edinburgh Castle. We were not, however, prepared for the cold. As Atlantic Canadians we think we're tough and have the reputation for being able to handle cold temperatures. But when the cold is joined by extreme dampness, wind and rain, even us hardy Canucks couldn't wait to return to a warm hearth for a cuppa.

Perched high above the city stands Edinburgh Castle

From Edinburgh we bused to Glasgow and stayed with a lovely chap named Neil who we found through Airbnb. After weeks of wearing the same clothes and seeming eating the same food, we were glad to do some laundry and cook our own food. Funny how the things we once dreaded now we relish! The highlight of Glasgow was its west end and university, where Scott found a painting he loved in the art gallery.

Next we headed to London on the train. Barrelling through the Scottish countryside was everything we'd hope it would be and we spent lots of time thinking of Scott's maternal grandparents, who were both from Scotland, as we ate our snacks and stared at the farmers' fields. We arrived at London Euston station on Saturday night and immediately appreciated being back in a bustling city. It was time to see the sights!

Scott eagerly awaiting the train to London

We checked a lot of things off our list in London: Buckingham Palace, Trafalgar Square, Big Ben and the Parliament Buildings, Tower Bridge, the Tower of London and Shakespeare's Globe Theatre. But our more meaningful memories of London are not on the typical sightseers' list. Scott's friend Lauren now lives in London and we're grateful to her for showing us Notting Hill in style. We hopped through the area's cafes and pubs like locals and had so much fun. Lauren also suggested we try Borough Market for lunch the next day. We did and had the most delicious lunch, yummy Ethiopian food. Thank you, Lauren!

At the archway to The Mall leading into Buckingham Palace

The Canadian Embassy in Trafalgar Square - the largest embassy in London

My mom also lived in London: she attended Memorial University's Harlow Campus in the 1970s. A visit to London wouldn't have been complete without taking the 30 minute train ride to Harlow to explore the campus and walk in my mom's footsteps. The campus was smaller than we expected, but we were met with warm hospitality as the receptionist gave us a private tour. Then we enjoyed a beautiful winter walk into the town centre. It was very healing to think of my mom's younger self coming to Europe and imagine how this continent may have changed her like it is changing me.

On the beautiful walk from campus to Harlow town centre

Legendary and "Legend-derry"

Returning to Ireland last week was like coming home, to our second home. Both MB and I have grown to love the Irish people for their lack of pretension, sense of humour, and appreciation of a good pint. Well, I love the pint part. MB continues to order red wine even though she is the only person in the pub not drinking beer or whiskey.

I was especially excited for this jaunt around the Emerald Isle because we had rented a car. Not only could we travel on our own schedule, but I would get the chance to try driving on the "wrong" side of the road. We planned our tour so that we basically drove around the circumference of Ireland over the course of a week - from Dublin to Waterford in the southeast, to Cork in the southwest, up the west coast to Westport, Donegal and Derry and then back to Dublin. It was an amazing trip and the perfect farewell - for now, anyway.

Ireland will always be legendary for us: not only its history, but also the very special memories we've had there over the past six months. On our visit to Derry, our tour guide explained that due to its rocky past, the safest name for the city is "Legend-derry". Its always been known as Derry to the Irish, but since the British insisted on renaming it Londonderry, now its name is unclear. Even maps refer to it as Londonderry/Derry. 

From legends to Legend-derry, here goes our last week in the land of the leprechauns...

MB at the Newfoundland plaque in Ireland.  This plaque was the reason we ventured into Waterford and we're so glad we did, it's a lovely town.

View of Blarney Castle.  Ireland itself is magical and Blarney Castle and it's grounds is the most magical place we found.  It includes a poison garden, wishing steps, witches kitchen, and the badgers cave - not to mention the Blarney Stone, which when kissed grants you the "gift of gab".  

Looking down from the top of Blarney Castle

I was head over heels excited to kiss the Blarney Stone.

MB hoped that kissing the stone would cure her lingering childhood stuttering.

View of Peace Bridge and the Guildhall in Derry, Northern Ireland

Inside the Guildhall - MB found this window to be particularly significant.  Can you see why?  Sorry, you have to look close.

Hopefully the significance of this window is a little easier to see.

Entering Free Derry sign has been updated to memorialize tragic events in Palestine and Ferguson, Missouri.

Ireland has a violent history and it's only recently that peace has been found.  The Bogside of Derry is where the infamous Bloody Sunday massacre took place in 1972.  The Irish have differing opinions on when the healing between Britain/Republic of Ireland/Northern Ireland and Prostant/Catholic took place.  Some say it was when the Good Friday Agreement was signed in 1998, while others would say it was when the Queen finally visited the Republic of Ireland in 2012 (it was the first time the a member of the British monarch had visited the republic since 1911).  Others would argue there's still a long way to go.  Similar to what we found at the East Side Gallery at the Berlin Wall, here are how some artists try to make sense of the tragic past and hope for a peaceful future:

Istanbul - Red Hat Tours begin

After a heartbreaking holiday back in Canada, it was with mixed feelings that we returned to Europe to continue our travels. I lost my mom whom I loved so dearly, and part of me wanted to stay in my bedroom in my parents' house and mope. Luckily we already had a flight to Istanbul booked, so this wasn't an option. Even luckier, my dad and his three buddies were meeting us in Istanbul on their way to volunteer in a boys orphanage in India. Scott and I had a day in the city before them, and became the unofficial tour guides. With my red hat forever shielding me from the wind, everyone said it was easy to follow me and joked I should open Red Hat Tours Company. I just hope I was helpful, not bossy!

Not only did the six of us have more fun than I ever imagined, but this trip has also been incredibly healing as I remember my mom and the fact that she would want me out seeing the world, not huddled in bed eating cereal straight out of the box.

Anyone who knows Scott and I will know that we are cheaper than cheap, especially when travelling. We were the cheapest of all is Istanbul. We got ripped off on a terrible exchange rate in Pearson airport and I was determined not to change any more money but to make the equivalent of $100CAN last us the entire five days in Istanbul. Our hotel included a fabulous breakfast and we had a inexpensive and delicious kebab place across the street, so we were able to succeed easily.

Most things of the amazing sights of Istanbul can be seen for free - the spice market (where the sights, smells, and towers of spices and dried fruit are displayed so beautifully you'd swear that food, not islam, is their religion), the grand bazaar, and a walk along the Bosphorus Straight and Galata Bridge. Being in this city where Europe and Asia meet, literally and figuratively, is an experience in itself. Commerce is emotional, not transactional, as merchants beckon you in from all angles as you walk by. We had one young entrepreneur wait for us for over an hour to lead us to his shop. At the time this seemed annoying, but now that we are back to the land of traditional shopkeeping, buying things seem boring.

Yet, Istanbul remains a city I love to visit, not live. The lack of women shopkeepers and the separate (and second class) prayer areas for women in mosques are examples of the separation and disparity of genders I'm not sure I could ever get used to.

Mari-Beth with the busy Bosphorus Straight in the background

This is a perfect example of why Mari-Beth isn't allowed to take photos - finger in the shot and completely slanted (or squish as Newfies would say)

Scott takes a better picture from behind the camera than he does in front :)  Enjoying a delicious fish sandwich fresh from the sea.

There are no words!

Tower of spices in the Spice Market - they smell just as good as they look.

Mari-Beth enjoying the crowd on the walk from Galata Tower to Taksim Square.

The famous Blue Mosque

Token selfie

Mari-Beth and Jonathan acting up - kindred silly spirits

Mari-Beth's Dad, Mel, the man who led us all to Istanbul and who can also rock a fez.

Snuggled in a snug

Last Thursday MB and I headed to Clarke's pub, rumoured to serve the best pint of Guinness in County Louth.  While I can't claim to be a Guinness expert, I think they pour a mighty fine pint.  We got drinks and headed to one of the pub's many snugs.  We'd seen snugs in Canada, but didn't realize what they were until coming to Ireland.  Snugs were designed to offer privacy within a pub and were used by wealthy patrons (drinks were more expensive in the snug) or people who did not want to be seen (i.e. priests, police officers, women). Today snugs simply provide a cozy atmosphere for enjoying your beverage.  

In our case the snug provided a perfect setting to write our Christmas cards.  MB is a perpetual planner and is always thinking 10 steps ahead.  In true MB fashion she wanted to send our cards extra early so they'd have lots of time to cross the Atlantic.  In true Scott fashion, I'll do anything at anytime if there is a pint involved.   With liquid inspiration in one hand and pen in the other, we got down to business.

Who knew writing Christmas cards needed this much motivation? 

Christmas Jumper or Cracking Good Christmas, which is your favourite?

MB doing the heavy lifting

Me doing the dirty work

Raking in rashers, having some happiness

Four months and one week after arriving in Ireland, I've found a job. Last week I started work at Esquires Coffee House, in the centre of Drogheda. Because in Ireland they call bacon "rashers', Scott and I joke that I am "raking in the rashers".

Inside Esquires, the site of a former bank.

It's definitely unlike a desk job and after working 35 hours last week, my shoulders ache from carrying trays and my fingertips have perma-prune from washing dishes. I have to admit, in my weaker moments, hunched over a pile of dirty dishes with wet feet and a stained apron, I ask myself: Why am I doing this? Why did I leave a good-paying, professional job to work for minimum wage in a country I've never been to before? Why did I sell a decent house in a decent part of Halifax to rent a room in a boarding house with five construction workers from Donegal?

Because, happiness is not only about good, professional and decent. It's also about new, exciting and different. So, as I walk home through the brisk fall air, over the dark Boyne River elegantly making its way to the Irish Sea, past the pubs pumping laughter into the streets and up the steps into our shared house, I realize that I am happy.

Posing happily in my uniform before a shift.

Crunchy leaves and crunch time!

When we returned to Drogheda last week, autumn had descended. And with crisp breezes and colourful leaves comes crunch time. It's that back-to-school feeling every adult gets when its time to leave the leisures of summer and start a new fall program (dad, you know what I mean!) to propel yourself into productivity.

Scott and I have a new abode to help our fresh fall start. On October 14, we moved into the residence formerly known as "The Spoon and Stars". Its a hostel-turned-rooming house that is surprisingly cozy. The Drogheda rental market is very competitive and, although the building is up for sale and we may be evicted once again, this is definitely the best place for us right now. After travelling for four weeks, its nice just to have a room of our own.

This year our fall program means looking for jobs. I am applying at call centres where my "American" accent is my secret weapon! Of course since Scott hates the phone and forces me to make all our routine calls, a call centre is out for him. I keep telling him that the sports betting parlours, which are all over Ireland, would be an ideal work environment for anyone going through fantasy football withdrawal, but he won't be tempted. We are both applying to cafes, pubs and shops - something definitely different from the office jobs we had in Canada. We're hoping that the Christmas rush will catapult us into employment quickly and after we woo employers with our Canadian politeness and efficiency they'll keep us on.

Making ourselves at home in our shared kitchen by making an apple crisp with Irish Bramley apples.