Monday, January 26, 2015

Legendary and "Legend-derry"

Returning to Ireland last week was like coming home, to our second home. Both MB and I have grown to love the Irish people for their lack of pretension, sense of humour, and appreciation of a good pint. Well, I love the pint part. MB continues to order red wine even though she is the only person in the pub not drinking beer or whiskey.

I was especially excited for this jaunt around the Emerald Isle because we had rented a car. Not only could we travel on our own schedule, but I would get the chance to try driving on the "wrong" side of the road. We planned our tour so that we basically drove around the circumference of Ireland over the course of a week - from Dublin to Waterford in the southeast, to Cork in the southwest, up the west coast to Westport, Donegal and Derry and then back to Dublin. It was an amazing trip and the perfect farewell - for now, anyway.

Ireland will always be legendary for us: not only its history, but also the very special memories we've had there over the past six months. On our visit to Derry, our tour guide explained that due to its rocky past, the safest name for the city is "Legend-derry". Its always been known as Derry to the Irish, but since the British insisted on renaming it Londonderry, now its name is unclear. Even maps refer to it as Londonderry/Derry. 

From legends to Legend-derry, here goes our last week in the land of the leprechauns...

MB at the Newfoundland plaque in Ireland.  This plaque was the reason we ventured into Waterford and we're so glad we did, it's a lovely town.

View of Blarney Castle.  Ireland itself is magical and Blarney Castle and it's grounds is the most magical place we found.  It includes a poison garden, wishing steps, witches kitchen, and the badgers cave - not to mention the Blarney Stone, which when kissed grants you the "gift of gab".  
Looking down from the top of Blarney Castle

I was head over heels excited to kiss the Blarney Stone.


MB hoped that kissing the stone would cure her lingering childhood stuttering.

View of Peace Bridge and the Guildhall in Derry, Northern Ireland

Inside the Guildhall - MB found this window to be particularly significant.  Can you see why?  Sorry, you have to look close.
Hopefully the significance of this window is a little easier to see.

Entering Free Derry sign has been updated to memorialize tragic events in Palestine and Ferguson, Missouri.
Ireland has a violent history and it's only recently that peace has been found.  The Bogside of Derry is where the infamous Bloody Sunday massacre took place in 1972.  The Irish have differing opinions on when the healing between Britain/Republic of Ireland/Northern Ireland and Prostant/Catholic took place.  Some say it was when the Good Friday Agreement was signed in 1998, while others would say it was when the Queen finally visited the Republic of Ireland in 2012 (it was the first time the a member of the British monarch had visited the republic since 1911).  Others would argue there's still a long way to go.  Similar to what we found at the East Side Gallery at the Berlin Wall, here are how some artists try to make sense of the tragic past and hope for a peaceful future:














Wednesday, January 21, 2015

Istanbul - Red Hat Tours begin

After a heartbreaking holiday back in Canada, it was with mixed feelings that we returned to Europe to continue our travels. I lost my mom whom I loved so dearly, and part of me wanted to stay in my bedroom in my parents' house and mope. Luckily we already had a flight to Istanbul booked, so this wasn't an option. Even luckier, my dad and his three buddies were meeting us in Istanbul on their way to volunteer in a boys orphanage in India. Scott and I had a day in the city before them, and became the unofficial tour guides. With my red hat forever shielding me from the wind, everyone said it was easy to follow me and joked I should open Red Hat Tours Company. I just hope I was helpful, not bossy!

Not only did the six of us have more fun than I ever imagined, but this trip has also been incredibly healing as I remember my mom and the fact that she would want me out seeing the world, not huddled in bed eating cereal straight out of the box.

Anyone who knows Scott and I will know that we are cheaper than cheap, especially when travelling. We were the cheapest of all is Istanbul. We got ripped off on a terrible exchange rate in Pearson airport and I was determined not to change any more money but to make the equivalent of $100CAN last us the entire five days in Istanbul. Our hotel included a fabulous breakfast and we had a inexpensive and delicious kebab place across the street, so we were able to succeed easily.

Most things of the amazing sights of Istanbul can be seen for free - the spice market (where the sights, smells, and towers of spices and dried fruit are displayed so beautifully you'd swear that food, not islam, is their religion), the grand bazaar, and a walk along the Bosphorus Straight and Galata Bridge. Being in this city where Europe and Asia meet, literally and figuratively, is an experience in itself. Commerce is emotional, not transactional, as merchants beckon you in from all angles as you walk by. We had one young entrepreneur wait for us for over an hour to lead us to his shop. At the time this seemed annoying, but now that we are back to the land of traditional shopkeeping, buying things seem boring.

Yet, Istanbul remains a city I love to visit, not live. The lack of women shopkeepers and the separate (and second class) prayer areas for women in mosques are examples of the separation and disparity of genders I'm not sure I could ever get used to.

Mari-Beth with the busy Bosphorus Straight in the background

This is a perfect example of why Mari-Beth isn't allowed to take photos - finger in the shot and completely slanted (or squish as Newfies would say)

Scott takes a better picture from behind the camera than he does in front :)  Enjoying a delicious fish sandwich fresh from the sea.

There are no words!

Tower of spices in the Spice Market - they smell just as good as they look.

Mari-Beth enjoying the crowd on the walk from Galata Tower to Taksim Square.

The famous Blue Mosque

Token selfie

Mari-Beth and Jonathan acting up - kindred silly spirits

Mari-Beth's Dad, Mel, the man who led us all to Istanbul and who can also rock a fez.